Taeste Buddies: Joyce Lee

The creative director and Madewell alum on good jeans, flip flops, and painting her Louis Vuitton bag.

Welcome to another edition of Taeste Buddies. It’s a bi-weekly interview series that explores the idea of taste: How it’s shaped by our identities and spurred by our creativity. Each edition I chat with someone whose taste I admire, whether as a friend or from afar.

I have core memories walking into the two-story Madewell store in SOHO. I’d walk upstairs and stare at the library-like denim wall looking for the perfect pair of skinny jeans (it was a different era). The genius behind some of the brand’s most iconic styles is Joyce Lee! As of this week, she’s also the creative director of Parker Thatch — another brand with a knack for highly wearable accessories. Like me, Joyce is a California girl. When I talked to Joyce, we nerded out on jeans, her attempt at DIY-ing jelly sandals, and why she painted her Louis Vuitton bag.

What does good taste mean to you?

It's always been something that evolves and grows over time as you collect all these different perspectives. Personally, a lot of it goes back to my first love, which is leather goods and accessories designs. Things that are three dimensional and sculptural.

I remember as a young child inspecting my mom's shoes and bags. Or, if we'd go shopping, I would pick things up and she'd be like, '“Why are you so fixated on that.” I always noticed the smell of leather. Good quality was what I was constantly using as a North Star for things being made really well. I knew this is something that somebody spent a lot of time designing and thinking about every little detail.

So I think a lot of my taste comes through the lens of design and creativity and how something is put together or made.

What’s an outfit that represents your style?

Khaite Shirt (similar on sale $431) , Ruadh Rhone Jean ($520), Cotton Citizen Tokyo Crop Tee($80), Alaia Mary Janes ($1290), Parker Thatch East West Tote ($398)

My style is pretty easy and casual, but always with something unexpected that helps me feel elevated. The shoes are that little pop, but everything else is just denim and a T-shirt. I dress pretty simply in terms of my apparel, but I always love to play around with my accessories. The denim on denim look is my outfit personality.

Ruadh Constance Jacket ($780), Jamie Haller The Slouch Jeans ($440), Chan Luu Manon Necklace ($390), Alaia Mary Janes ($1290), The Row Tote ($335)

You’re a bonafide denim expert, who makes really good denim right now?

A rack of denim in Copenhagen.

Khaite and Ruadh are the higher end. I'm a sucker for vintage, the picture is a rack of denim at Jerome Vintage in Copenhagen. Agolde does a great job of making new denim that fits well that feels very inspired by vintage.

• Ruadh The Archer ($520)

• Khaite Kerry Jeans ($520)

• Khaite Straight Leg Jeans ($220 on TRR)

• Agolde ‘90s Jeans ($220)

• Agolde High Rise Jeans ($70 on TRR)

What was the last great thing you purchased?

The perfect flip flops.

I just ordered myself a fresh pair of flip-flops from Sleepers. It might sound like a very basic item, but these are anything but — I love the elevated shape, high-quality natural rubber, and they are genuinely comfortable enough to wear all day. They go with everything in my summer wardrobe and somehow make the idea of a rubber flip-flop feel considered and chic.

Espadrilles in Spain.

I get the most joy from shopping when traveling. I always love to pick up special pieces. They always feel more emotionally connected in my closet when I do that. Last summer I was in Costa Brava in Spain, and I bought myself a pair of black espadrilles.

What shaped your creative taste? When did fashion shift from an interest to a job?

My path started at a very young age. I remember trying to stitch little pieces of fabric and handles together to make my own bag. I remember asking my mom, “please, Mom, I need a pair of these jelly shoes.” She was like, “absolutely no.” She was a pretty strict mother. I'm first generation born in the US, my parents came from Hong Kong. That was a huge part of my identity growing up. My mom didn't understand me fundamentally… what I was emotionally drawn to or connected to. Because she wouldn't let me have those shoes, it lit a fire. The only way I could try to even get it out of my system was to try to make something for myself. Looking around the house, I found a six pack of soda can rings and taped them together. Of course, they didn't work as real shoes, but that was this big light bulb moment of wanting to be a shoe designer.

Growing up, my parents were not supportive of me going into design or a creative field. I ended up going to UC Davis because they had a textiles program, and it was the closest thing I could do to design while satisfying my parents with a bachelor's degree in something practical. After I graduated from that program, I moved to London for six months, and I interned at Wallpaper magazine. I realized I needed to figure out how I was going to actually work in this industry and find a design program so I could focus on accessories. I found a program at FIT in New York. When my mom brought me to New York to interview, that was the moment for her that it clicked. She realized I was not going to be stopped.

I want to talk a little bit about your time at Madewell. I'm on Reddit a lot, and I started getting recommended the r/Madewell subreddit. Your name comes up a lot, I don't know if you know this?

Sometimes people will send me threads, and I'm like, “What is this?” I'm a designer. I do prefer to be behind the scenes. When I became the head of design at Madewell, it became a more publicly-facing role. I didn't feel comfortable, but I knew that was part of the job and I would do my best.

I truly lived and breathed being the Madewell girl. I started at the brand as the head of accessories design. It was a very young brand at that moment, we didn't yet have our full DNA built yet. It was a really exciting time for me as a designer to come in and be able to shape that. When I was elevated to the head of design role, it was an exciting time. It felt very intertwined with my own style and my own taste, and that was a bonus for me as a designer — getting to design for a brand that inherently felt like my natural inclinations. I remember being on a trip to Korea, being at 10 Corso Como, and looking over at someone and they were wearing Madewell boots. Or being at the airport and seeing many cool, stylish looking girls wearing the Transport Tote. That's something I did.

What’s exciting you now from a career perspective?

It goes back to just being able to expand right now and being less linear, getting to work on different aspects of being a creative. In the past, it was a little bit more limited to designing product. At this point, I love getting deeper into what I can do, you know, and how it actually, then gets in front of a customer.

I’m really drawn to projects that feel intimate, where I can stay close to the product and also shape the overall brand story. I'm currently working with Parker Thatch, and it's been incredibly fun and rewarding. I collaborate directly, designing bags and accessories while also getting to touch everything from photography to social media to brand identity.

Pieces from the World of Crow collab

I also collaborated with World of Crow. Shaila, the founder, and I had been connected because we had carried her brand on our site [at Madewell]. After I left I was like, “okay, I have time, so let's do something fun.” I love the pants, they're hand woven and hand block printed. I also got to work on kids pieces, which I've always wanted to do.

Do you have any hobbies?

An incense box by Som, he’s making his own cool pieces.

I'm excited to get back into pottery. I had been doing pottery as an adult prior to having my daughter ten years ago. Now my daughter goes [to my old studio]. I called my friend [and former Taeste Buddy] Somsack and said, “I need to join you, because I love seeing everything that you're making.” He's so inspiring.

I get my fill by going to Happy Medium here and there, as they have one-day workshops where you can either throw on the wheel or hand-build.

At Happy Medium.

Lately, I’ve really reconnected with cooking as a creative outlet. There’s something satisfying about opening the fridge, pulling together whatever’s there, and turning it into something simple and delicious. It feels a lot like design in that way… intuitive, playful, sensory, and always evolving.

This is Poppy's creation from when we were on that Spain trip. She and her friend were like “you guys sleep, we’re making breakfast.” They made that beautiful platter of fruit, scrambled eggs, and toast. It was so cute.

What’s made it even more special is that my kids have started joining me in the kitchen. We put on music, pick different jobs, and have fun with the smallest things. They especially love making dumplings — each one a different shape, a little messy, always creative. I’ve had to learn to let go of perfection and just enjoy the process with them.

What’s something surprising you have really good taste in?

I like to think that I have good (and trusted) taste in hole-in-the-wall restaurants and under-the-radar dishes. The kind of spots where the lighting is terrible, the menu is handwritten, and the food is unforgettable. I’ve had some of the best meals of my life sitting on plastic stools with no signage in sight.

Mei Lai Wah Coffee Shop in Chinatown, you just cruise in and get your egg custard tart. Though the last few times I’ve walked by I’ve seen insane lines so I longer go there unless it’s a quiet moment. I don't want to stand in a line. I'd rather go find something a little more under the radar. Have you ever been to Pho Bang? It's in Chinatown, on Mott Street. It's an amazing Vietnamese restaurant that I always go to for Pho noodles. They have this dish that I've never seen anywhere else, and it's shrimp chips with rice noodles layered on top and then a piece of grilled pork on top of that, and then you wrap it in lettuce and you dip it in the fish sauce. It is unbelievably amazing.

You have a free afternoon — what do you do?

A visit to the Guggenheim.

I love a trip to the Guggenheim when I need a little dose of inspiration. I love the size of that museum, how easy it is, and also how inspiring the actual architecture feels.

What’s most precious to you?

The Polka Dot LV bag.

When I left Marc Jacobs and I got a job working for Michael Kors, I was with my mom, and we were shopping. I'd always wanted this duffle bag, but I really wanted to have polka dots on it. So I bought it and literally went home and painted dots on it. My mom was like, “what the hell are you doing? Why did you just ruin your bag?” But it still is in my closet. I did this 20 years ago, so I'm pretty sure it was before Kusama’s collab with LV. It's the quality, it's timelessness, but then it has something interesting that makes it feel personal.

Can you share a few recommendations that you’re excited about?

could be a restaurant, a dish, a home item, a book, a new brand, a vintage style on ebay, anything!

Lai Rai - this natural wine bar / Vietnamese ice cream shop is on the edge of Chinatown and what I love is that it’s a low-key but beautifully considered space with a marble bar, and delicious snacks. The homemade ice creams and sorbets come in unexpected flavors like calamansi, avocado, and banana leaf. The Vietnamese restaurant next door, Mam, is the spot to hit for dinner, either before or after the wine and ice cream!

Jones Road Miracle Balm - I love this product for its versatility. I use the Au Naturel shade for a dewy, fresh finish after makeup, and the Cocoa Bronze adds just the right hint of sun-kissed color. It’s effortless, blends beautifully, and makes everything look a little more alive.

Kitchen Item: Tatung Steamer - I discovered the Tatung Steamer through a podcast recommendation from Irene Chen, and now I’m obsessed. It’s one of those quietly brilliant, multipurpose kitchen tools you don’t realize you need until you have it — simple, efficient, and surprisingly versatile. It’s become a go-to for everything from perfectly steamed rice to quick dumplings and one-pot meals. Total game-changer!!

Pantry Staple: Rummo Gluten Free Pasta - I’m recommending this because I had a delicious pasta dish the other day and only learned that the spaghetti used was gluten-free. I had no idea, because it was so indiscernible!

Magic Bag by Parker Thatch - I love a bag with versatility, and a mix of high-low. This bag converts to different shapes and can be worn a few different ways, and I adore the unexpected pink webbing handles that bring in a sporty element.

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