Welcome to part two of my Copenhagen coverage. If part one was a look into the intricacies of fashion week in Denmark, this edition is a more personal investigation of my time in the city. More of a traevel guide if you will. I’ll round up what I wore, what I shopped for, and what I ate — all the titillating details that you can save for your own visit somewhere down the line. Since it was my first time in the city, I relied heavily on recommendations from many of my friends who’d made it here before, and their taste didn’t disappoint.
If my last trip to Haida Gwaii was one to get away from it all, this was one to be in the throng of the city. To gladly overpay for delicious food, to wander old streets, admire stylish cyclists, and stumble upon sweet little shops full of vintage clothes and old-timey candy. On personal vacations, I’m allergic to stacked schedules. I like an activity or two, but I prefer breathing room — to let my curiosity lead. When I’m traveling for work, stealing a few spare hours or an extra day to do only what I’m in the mood to do feels precious, and so I didn’t waste any of my time on the ground.
Day 1: Touchdown in the land of carbs
Wearing: Buck Mason tank $48, Tibi trouser shorts $595, Extreme Cashmere zip-up $1000, Don’t Let Disco necklace $625, Mansur Gavriel cow-print bag $845, Nike x Jacquemus sneakers (similar, $90)
Coming off a red-eye is never a pleasant experience, but it’s especially rough pinned in the back of economy. I dragged myself dreary-eyed through customs towards Henrik’s Hotel, my home for the week. It was 9am, but my room wouldn’t be ready until 3.
So myself and Emilia Petrarca did what any self respecting travelers would do — headed straight for a hearty breakfast at Atelier September, where we inhaled our toast and butter and split a delightfully creme-filled, flaky pastry. My coffee was $9, but highly necessary.
Making up to-dos as I waited for my room, I spent my time getting oriented with the city — via light shopping, of course (though no purchases just yet). The center of town is highly walkable, so I strolled aimlessly until I could make it to my room for a recharge. No napping, but an hour awake in bed willing my internal battery to fill back up.
Finally, I set out for dinner with Jolie, a magical evening that started with a canal cruise, and ended with seafood-heavy dinner and masterfully curated wine under the bridge at Rosforth & Rosforth. Two glasses into dinner, I knew I’d have to call it early(ish), so by 9:30 I was headed home to tuck in for the night.
Total Steps: 21,428
Total Pastries Consumed: .5
Day 2: To a Day of Shows
Wearing: Buck Mason tank $48, Miu Miu skirt (similar from Damson Madder, $135), Auralee sweater (similar, $363), Fane bag $800, Tory Burch sandals $400, Cartier tank francaise watch via TRR $5500, Carolina Bucci bracelet $760.
Once fashion week begins, life becomes a sprint — no longer on my own time, I dutifully bob from to-do to to-do, trying to squeeze a bite or a little down time in where I can get it.
Emilia and I were buddied up in a car, driven by the lovely Celia, our 30-year-old driver from Malaga with the kind of baby bangs that make you feel like maybe, just maybe, you can pull them off too. The day rolled out in succession: a pop by Mr. Larkin, a shared cardamom bun from Hart Bageri, a visit to the gallery-like Cecilie Bahnsen store to pick up some samples I’d be borrowing for the week, a pop by Frama, a soap / self-care store. (The employees told me they had a private chef that made them lunch every day…). Next door we fueled up at Apotek 57 (more buns), before hitting up the Opera Sport show, Anne Sofie Madsen, Freya Dalsjo, and a Ganni party where they had their own branded wine (chic, but a little too natural - it tasted like vinegar).
While I wore my Tory Burch heels to my events for the day, one perk of having a car is the fact that I had flip flops patiently waiting should my feet start to suffer. My Miu Miu skirt was one of the many polka dotted bottoms I spotted throughout the day —it’s an honor to be accidentally on trend (some of my favorite alternatives include this dress from Proenza and Donni’s taffeta pants in spots).
Since the weather was what I’d describe as dually comfortable and confusing. A steady 70 degrees, yet I was always a little too hot or too cold, depending on how much direct sunlight I was standing in. It reminded me a bit of being home in the Bay Area — where you dress for five different temperatures in the same day.
Day 2: To the Welcome Gala
Wearing: Ganni tank $150 and skirt $500, Saks Potts jacket (similar $766 via TRR) , Fane bag $800, Tory Burch sandals $400.
Despite loving my outfit, I made a quick change for the end of the night. I swapped into a full Ganni look for the aforementioned party, and kept the outfit on through to the welcome gala (dress code: cocktail). I broke out my favorite Saks Potts coat because while the brand may no longer be with us, I wanted to pay my respects while visiting their home town.
Total Steps: 8,637
Pastries: 1.5
Day 3: Guess What — More Shows + Shopping
Wearing: Cecilie Bahnsen top $1100, Tory Burch pants (size 10 on Poshmark, $200), Havaianas flip flops $24, Completedworks earrings $284
Coming off of a good night of sleep (finally), the day was a laundry list of to-dos: a breakfast at Tekla (I still wish I’d ordered this striped duvet to bring home, but imagine that in a suitcase), another breakfast at Kinraden, a visit to Lie Studios (a personal favorite), a pop by to see Rixo’s latest collection, then to a host of shows including a favorite, Skall Studios.
We managed to finally nosh on a few vegetables at Apollo bar, and stop into a few of the local shops worth noting: Firstly, the Hay House store, where I spotted my beloved living room lampshade, and this dog bed which tempted me being that we’re currently on the road to adopting.
As I mentioned in my first Copenhagen dispatch, there was lots of Flore Flore to be found at shops like Another Nue, and I dutifully clocked the Phoebe Philo at Stoy. The style in the city is oftentimes simple — bikers wear floaty dresses or trousers and tanks, but there’s always something playful that makes their style feel unique. A hair clip from Pico (the accessory store I’ve heard so much about, and finally got the chance to check out IRL), or a playful bag.
Day 3: Dinner with Holzweiler
Wearing: Veronica de Piante jacket (on sale, $1080), Hozweiler wide-leg jeans $98, Completedworks earrings $284, Mansur Gavriel cow-print bag $845
The night ended with a sunset stroll in the park to dinner with Norwegian brand Holzweiler. The green spaces in Copenhagen are hard to beat, teeming with couples and groups of friends indulging in wine and snacks, relaxing as they enjoy the sunset. It felt peaceful, which is hard to accomplish in a big city.
As happens to freelancers the world around, work never ends, so post-dinner I hopped on a meeting with the US, and by the time I wrapped up my to-dos it was after midnight. Alarm is set for 6:30am (eek).
Total Steps: 17,874
Pastries: 0 (if bread and butter doesn’t count)
Day 4: Running, Biking, Socializing
Wearing: Tory Burch dress (similar on Poshmark, $475), Lie Studio sunglasses $270 and earrings $390, Nike x Jacquemus sneakers (similar, $90)
I started the day with a short jog — I’m (spoiler alert) training for the NYC Marathon, my very first! — and that means running even on long work days. Running is one of my favorite things to do when I’m visiting somewhere new. It’s an easy way to get my bearings and start looking for restaurants or shops to check back on later. In Copenhagen, the many parks I mentioned above, came in handy for these little jaunts. Today, it was Amager Faelled, a nature reserve where I spotted a pheasant and fresh blackberries.
I made it home, showered, and got ready for my day of shows and responsibilities, including a mentoring event where I gave my dutiful advice to the next generation (it’s in fact hard to give advice about my job, since the way I got into it no longer really exists).
With a break mid-morning, I hopped on a Lime bike to treat myself to a solo, carb-only lunch at Lille bakery. I felt like a Copenhagen resident, pedaling across bridges dressed in a favorite Tory Burch dress (a photo of me ended up in a story on the “tradwife trend” at Copenhagen Fashion Week, and I have to laugh - the dress is inspired by Claire McCardell, the woman who invented American sportswear). I popped by the Sophie Bille Brahe showroom (which has the same delicious leopard chairs as their spot in NYC).
Celia parked the car to join me for the Oval Square party at Laban wine bar. Then I ended the day with the Mfpen show, treated myself to a solo bowl of ramen, then headed home to tippy tap on my laptop for a few hours, prepping my fashion coverage for the week.
Total Steps: 21,284
Pastry Count: 2
Day 5: The Final Day
Wearing: Cecilie Bahnsen top (similar, $1130), By Malene Berger skirt $350, Nike sneakers (on sale, $75Z), Uno de 50 necklace (similar, $320), Chanel bag $3018 via eBay
For the last official day, I started my morning off with a little bit of culture: a private tour of Copenhagen Contemporary courtesy of Conch Books. I got to see their Camille Henrot exhibition, which I also saw in part last year in NYC. I also got to enjoy a museum cafe cookie, which was not overly sweet, and covered in sesame seeds (appropriate cookie for 10am). In between shows, we also managed to squeeze a visit in at what I’d deem the best bakery of our entire visit, Juno. Emilia and I split four different pastries.
After wrapping our shows, I ended the day at dinner with the Throwing Fits guys and the Mfpen team. They have great taste in restaurants, because Bar Vitrine was delicious and spicy. We finished the night out with celebratory drinks for CPHFW’s Isabelle Davey, who was saying goodbye to her role, making the magic of Copenhagen Fashion Week happen.
Total Steps: 12, 416
Pastries: 4 x .5, so is that technically 2?
Day 6: Free Time!
Wearing: Buck Mason tank $48, Extreme Cashmere zip-up $1000, vintage jeans.
For my last day in town, I finally got the chance to buy the last goodies I’d been holding out for, and to do a bit of exploring. I headed up to the Louisiana Museum, finally dressed down in jeans, a tank, and sneakers. My favorite thing there was a set of photos depicting the inside of Elizabeth Taylor’s house, including the shot below of her bag collection. A girl can dream!
Back in the city, I spent the afternoon alone. I got these deliciously swirly, $30 eggs from Studio X Kitchen (a rec from Tara Maria Gonzalez). I also popped by Lubarol and Lot #29 (recs from my friend Serena!), and Timeless Vintage for women’s clothes. Then, on my hunt for black licorice (don’t come for me), I stumbled across Somod’s Sweet Shop, tucked back from the street, and serving up hard candies for over a hundred years.
I ended the day with a full meal from Gaza Grill, a lovely Palestinian restaurant tucked into Kodbyen, Copenhagen’s former meatpacking district, bursting at the seams with cool restaurants to try.
Total Steps: 15,898
Pastries: 1 cookie and lots of black licorice…
Day 7: The Last Jog
Wearing: Satisfy auralite shirt ($190), Athleta stash shorts ($55), Oakley x Satisfy Sunglasses $115 via ebay, Nike pegasus sneakers ($145), Shokz openrun headphones ($130)
With a seven mile run on the training agenda, I set out early before my flight, winding my way through the streets to Frederiksberg Have, a park where I stumbled upon… elephants! Perhaps the most dramatic animal spotting on my runs to date. Lucky for me, I’d spent so many days carbo loading, hitting the hills felt like a breeze!
Mid-run I stopped to peruse a local flea market before heading home for a shower and to grab my suitcases and go. While I’ve mentioned it before here, I want to shout out my friends Cristina & Kelly at Yardsale for making the perfect carry-on bag.
I arrived home in New York to Dylan making me dinner :)
Total Steps: 15,696
Pastries Consumed: Zero…i was all pastried out.
If you’ve made it this far and want to know what actually made it into my suitcase home…
Baby clothes for my sister (due next month) from Co Label
Cecilie Bahnsen blasie sneakers ($625)
Somod’s rhubarb and licorice hard candies ($18)
Frama bar soap (not available yet, but the hand wash is equally nice)
Pico Store hair clip for my unruly, thick hair ($22)
Thank you for reading Taeste Bud!
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Sounds like a dream. Loved reading this.